I chose ‘Ice Cream’ this month because, on this balmy Spring day, the images in it made me long for summer and sandals and eating ice cream outside and the remembered sorrow of dropping a Mivvi on the dusty ground.
There is something rather wonderful about ice cream. Even though you can buy it anywhere and there are hundreds of different brands, styles and flavours available, the jingling tune of an ice cream van is a sound filled with excitement and expectation. Even if you disapprove of eating in the street, eating a 99 dripping with syrup as you walk along on a hot day is still, somehow, a proper treat.
The Shire book of Ice Cream is a proper treat in itself. The Introduction entices you, like a Penny Lick, into the history and manufacturing process of ice cream. The facing photograph of a moulded ice cream swan surrounded by fruit is extraordinary, particularly when you realise that confections such as these were first seen at the end of the 17th century. And this is where the story really begins.
Chilled sweatmeats, made by mixing snow or ice with fruit juice or dairy products, were being eaten as far back as the Romans, Persians and ancient Chinese. The first Slush Puppies if you will. True ices however, didn’t come about until an artificial method of freezing was discovered using chemical salts with crushed ice. This process was first described in 1530.
Ice cream was, for a long time, only for the rich as only they had the facilities and the skilled cooks to prepare them. It was a difficult process and very labour intensive and Ivan Day takes us through the development of the early ice cream equipment and the paraphernalia which went with it.
As technology progressed, the book describes how manufacturing changed to bring ice cream to the masses and how ordinary people initially responded to it. Food is so often an indicator of the prosperity and class structure of a country and something as simple as an ice cream pudding can illustrate in an instantly understandable way how society shifts and settles and how simple pleasures become available to all.
But to understand how nothing actually changes, who do you think created Parmesan ice cream or made ice cream to look like a cooked ham? Did I hear you mutter ‘Heston Blumenthal’? Wrong. How did the invention of the wafer stop people enjoying saliva and slime with their ice cream? Who wouldn’t want a bit of Hokey-Pokey?
Well I’m not telling you. You’ll have to read the book.





